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A cane pole costs less than a tank of gas, weighs less than a Yeti tumbler, and has caught more bluegill in Georgia than every spinning reel ever sold here. Here's how I rig mine.

There's a small smug pleasure in walking past a bass boat with a $14 cane pole over your shoulder. There's an even bigger pleasure in watching the guy in the boat watch you pull in your fourth bream of the morning while he's still untangling his crankbait. I'm not saying spinning gear is bad β€” I own three reels and I use them. I'm saying that for shallow-water panfish, the cane pole is still the best tool human beings have ever invented for the job, and most folks have forgotten why.

The pole itself

Get a ten- or twelve-foot two-piece bamboo or fiberglass pole. Bamboo if you can find one β€” fiberglass if you can't. You want it light enough to hold for two hours without your shoulder complaining, and stiff enough that you can swing a fish out of brush without praying.

The line

Eight feet of 8-pound monofilament, tied directly to the tip of the pole with two half-hitches and a dab of superglue. Don't run line down the pole. Don't use braid. You want the line to be roughly the length of the pole β€” a hair shorter, actually, so you can swing the fish into your free hand without a fight.

The terminal rig

How to use it

Drop the rig β€” don't cast it. Swing it gently into the spot you want. Let it sit. Watch the bobber. When it goes under, lift the pole; the fish will usually swing right out of the water and into your hand. If you have to set the hook hard, you're using too big a hook.

The cane pole's secret isn't simplicity β€” it's precision. With a twelve-foot pole and an eight-foot line, you can drop a cricket into a coffee-cup-sized opening in the lily pads from fifteen feet away without disturbing the water around it. No spinning rod can do that. No baitcaster can do that. And the bream know the difference.


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